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brisket

Cold-hardy grapes yield soul-warming wines

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By Himanee Gupta-Carlson

Michael and Kelly Spiak, photo provided

The Fossil Stone Vineyard bottles of wine almost seem to glitter on display tables at the Saratoga Farmers’ Market: The golden hue of La Crescent, the ruby glow of Marquette, the fiery dark pink of their Rose, a blend of the two.

Fossil Stone is among the market’s newest vendors, joining in late August. But for owners Michael and Kelly Spiak making wine is not new. Their journey, like much of farming, is all about having a passion and the patience to transform that passion into products.

For Michael Spiak, passion began while traveling through New Zealand with the military.

“New Zealand was blanketed with vineyards, which I had a strange fascination with,” he says. “I loved everything about them … the posts, the vines, the grapes, and of course the wine.”

Fossil Stone Wines, photo provided

He and his wife Kelly owned land in Greenfield Center. They decided in 2006 to try growing grapevines. Their first wines came from vines planted in 2009, and they began selling wine in 2014. Today, Fossil Stone consists of more than 3,000 wines and a winery barn. A tasting room is set to open next summer.

The Spiaks grow cold-hardy French hybrid grapes developed by University of Minnesota viticulturist Peter Hamstead to produce LaCrescent – a crisp white with hints of apricot – and Marquette – a smooth medium-bodied red with hints of cherry and plum. They also craft a Rose from a 30-70 blend of Marquette and LaCrescent.

“It is darker than most Roses,” says Spiak, “but don’t let that fool you. It behaves very much like a Rose.”

At Fossil Stone, winter is a time to craft wines before the growing cycle begins in late February when vines will be pruned prior to bud break in late April/early May. The grapes grow through late summer and are harvested in fall.

Fossil Stone wines pair well with many winter farmers’ market offerings, such as beef brisket. “I used to work for the Saratoga North Creek Railroad as a locomotive engineer,” Michael Spiak recalls. “The chef on board used our Marquette to make a wine reduction and poured it over a broiled brisket and then paired it with our Marquette.”

“It was delicious.”

This week’s recipe: Marquette-Braised Beef Brisket

Michael and Kelly Spiak, photo provided

Marquette-Braised Beef Brisket

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Recipe by Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo for Food & Wine
Active time: 45 mins
Total time: 4 hrs 30 mins
Yield: 6 servings

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Ingredients
*Ingredients available at the farmers’ market
● 2 1/2 pounds beef brisket*, fat trimmed to 1/4 inch
● 2 cups of Fossi Stone’s Marquette*
● 1 cup red wine vinegar
● 4 juniper berries, smashed
● 2 teaspoons white peppercorns
● 2 carrots*, finely diced
● 1 celery rib, finely diced
● 2 garlic cloves*, thinly sliced
● 4 large onions*, thinly sliced
● 1/4 cup canola oil
● Salt and freshly ground pepper
● 2 tart apples*, finely chopped, plus 1/2 tart apple, peeled and chopped, for garnish (optional)
● 1/2 cup raisins
● 1 bay leaf
● 1 teaspoon chopped thyme*
● 3/4 cup chicken stock or low-sodium broth

Instructions
● In a large resealable plastic bag, combine the beef brisket with the Marquette, red wine vinegar, juniper berries, white peppercorns, carrots, celery, garlic, and 1 of the onions. Close the bag, pressing out any air, and refrigerate the brisket overnight or for up to 2 days.
● Preheat the oven to 275°. Strain the marinade, discarding the solids. Pat the brisket dry. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil. Season the brisket with salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat until browned all over, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the brisket to a large plate. Add the remaining 3 onions and the 2 finely chopped apples to the casserole and cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until softened, about 7 minutes.
● Return the brisket to the casserole and add the raisins, bay leaf, thyme, and the strained marinade. Season with salt and pepper and bring to a simmer. Cover and braise in the oven for about 3 hours, until the meat is very tender; turn the brisket halfway through cooking.
● Carefully transfer the brisket to a plate; cover and keep warm. Strain the cooking liquid into a heatproof measuring cup, pressing down on the solids. Wipe out the casserole and add the cooking liquid and chicken stock. Boil over moderately high heat until reduced by half, about 20 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper. Thinly slice the brisket across the grain and garnish with the chopped apple. Serve with the sauce and a glass of Fossil Stone’s Marquette.

Make Ahead: The brisket can be refrigerated in the sauce, whole or sliced, for up to 2 days. Rewarm in the oven.

Pot Roast with Cranberries

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Recipe by Mark Bittman
Yields 4 to 6 servings
Prep & cook time: 1 1/4 hours, or more

Ingredients
*Ingredients currently available at the Saratoga Farmers’ Market
● 1 tablespoon butter or extra-virgin olive oil
● ½ cup sugar
● 1 2-pound piece beef tenderloin*, or 3-pound piece chuck* or brisket*
● Salt and freshly ground black pepper
● ½ cup sherry vinegar or good wine vinegar
● 1 12-ounce bag cranberries
● 1 orange
● Cayenne, to taste

Preparation
1. Put butter or oil in a casserole or skillet with a lid, and turn heat to medium-high. Put sugar on a plate, and dredge meat in it on all sides; reserve remaining sugar. When butter foam subsides or oil is hot, brown meat on all sides, seasoning it with salt and pepper as it browns.
2. When the meat is nicely browned, add vinegar, and cook a minute, stirring, then add cranberries and remaining sugar, and stir. Strip zest from orange (you can do it in broad strips, with a small knife or vegetable peeler), and add it to pot; juice orange, and add juice also, along with a pinch of cayenne. Turn heat to low, and cover pan; mixture should bubble but not furiously.
3. Cook, turning meat and stirring about every 30 minutes. Tenderloin will be medium-rare in about 1 hour, or when its internal temperature is 125 to 130 degrees; cook it longer if you want it more done. Chuck or brisket will take 2 hours or longer; it is done when tender. Taste, and adjust seasoning if necessary. Turn off heat, and let roast rest for a few minutes, then carve and serve, with sauce.