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Shop Local, Eat Fresh

Moby Ricks

Fruits of the Sea: Fresh fish at the Saratoga Farmers’ Market

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By Himanee Gupta-Carlson

Eight years ago, Captain Rick Lofstad joined the Saratoga Farmers’ Market with Pura Vida Fisheries Inc.

The customer line stretched around his tables and beyond. Fish lovers and others were entranced by the opportunity to obtain seafood freshly caught almost in their back yards. The interest was so high that a year and a half later, Lofstad opened a retail store, Moby Rick’s Seafood, on Lake Street.

Today, that demand for fresh fish remains strong at the market, where Pura Vida offers a variety of fish and shellfish weekly.

Sardines. Photo by Pattie Garrett

“I grew up in New England and when I moved here, I thought we were too far inland to get fresh fish,” says Kenny Bourbeau, a personal chef. “Then, I heard about this guy who was selling fish at the Saratoga Farmers’ Market. I had to check it out.”

Bourbeau now sells fish for Pura Vida and Moby Rick’s, and helps make the chowders and other prepared foods that are also available. The store offers fish from throughout the world. However, the producers-only ethic and local emphasis of the Saratoga Farmers’ Market means that what Pura Vida brings to this market are solely those fished from New York waters, mostly off the coast of Long Island.

In other words, says Bourbeau, about as fresh as seafood gets.

Among the local fish available at the market at this time of year are grey sole, winter flounder, sand shark, black sea bass, porgy, skate, monkfish, weak fish, blow fish, sea scallops, cod, tuna, and squid. Lofstad’s boats go out several times a week. The catch is transported to a facility in Hudson, where it its filleted and then transported to Saratoga a day before market.

Littleneck Clams. Photo by Pattie Garrett

When asked what was his favorite winter catch, Adrien Johnson had to think. He likes all of it. Finally, he settled on scallops – from both the Long Island Bay and Peconic Bay. The icy cold seawater sweetens their taste. The scallops are great sautéed in olive oil or butter with some garlic and black pepper, or can be cooked into a stew (see accompanying recipe).

For more suggestions, visit Pura Vida’s table at the market.

Sea Scallop Stew

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*denotes ingredients currently available at the farmers’ market

INGREDIENTS:

2 carrots,* finely chopped

Minced garlic,* shallot,* and/or onion,* to taste.

1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely chopped 

1-2 stalks celery, finely chopped

16 ounces fish stock* (or chicken or vegetable broth)

1 sprig fresh thyme* or another fresh herb* such as rosemary

1 dozen clams*

1/2 lb mussels*

1/2 lb sea scallops*

1/2 lb firm local fish, such as monkfish* or steelhead trout*

Salt and black pepper to taste

Olive oil

INSTRUCTIONS:

  1. Wash clam and mussel shells to remove any residual debris.
  2. Heat olive oil in a soup pan, and add carrots, celery, ginger, garlic, herbs and other seasonings. Sauté on medium heat for about 3 minutes.
  3. Add stock and bring to a boil. Lower heat and allow mixture to simmer until vegetables are soft. Add additional water, stock, or white wine, if desired.
  4. While vegetables are cooking, steam clams and mussels open. Remove from shells.
  5. Add sea scallops and any additional fish to stew, along with clams and mussels.  
  6. Cook on a medium-low heat until scallops start to split at edges, about 7 to 10 minutes.
  7. Remove from heat and enjoy with rice, oyster crackers, or a toasted baguette.* If desired, garnish with a sprig of fresh parsley* or a few micro greens,* as pictured.

Variations: 

Feel free to vary the types of vegetables and seafood in this recipe. You can obtain fresh fish stock from Pura Vida Fisheries at the farmers’ market or at their Moby Rick’s Seafood store on Lake Street.

Finding Freshness in the Freezer

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By Himanee Gupta-Carlson

Mid-winter meals often call for “something fresh.”

At the Saratoga Farmers’ Market, “something fresh” in February usually means stored fruits and vegetables from late summer harvests, or items like microgreens and pea shoots that can be grown in flat trays over heating mats or under lights, or small tomatoes and cucumbers that can be grown in greenhouses.

Late summer produce, photo By Eric Jenks

All that is good. But sometimes the taste buds want something more – out of season peppers, beans, broccoli, a wide variety of tomatoes, or corn.

In the past, saving foods for the winter was a necessity. In a practice known as “putting foods by,” families salted, pickled, dried, canned or otherwise preserved freshly harvested fruits or vegetables for later use.

The rise of global shipping and grocery chains caused many to abandon the practice, as did changes in the societal structure that led to longer working hours and more activities outside the home. It became faster and easier to just drop by the store.

But I hate buying non-local produce. I love growing food with my husband and supporting my farmer friends by buying what they grow. Last September I decided to try putting foods by in a simple way: I stored fresh tomatoes, beans, peppers, broccoli and sweet corn in freezer bags. On my mind then was Chowderfest, and its fabulous chowders, many of which get their zest from non-winter foods.

The result? Winter meals with more variety, flavor, and color – fresh tomato sauces, roasted broccoli, and braised beans served alongside the apples, turnips, carrots, and microgreens I can still get weekly at the market. 

I hope to finish off these delights by early May when the market moves to its outdoor location on Wednesdays and Saturdays at High Rock Park. Then, I will start planning for next winter. I invite you to join me in this venture as you visit the market now and in the future.

Clams & Mussels from Pura Vida Fisheries, photo by Pattie Garrett

As for chowder, I am thinking classic New England, made with clams (Pura Vida Fisheries) or chicken (Squashville Farm, Ramble Creek Farm, Mariaville Mushroom Men, and others), milk (Battenkill Valley Creamery), potatoes, and kernels of sweet corn, purchased last summer for weekends like this.