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Pura Vida Fisheries

Christmas on the Farm

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By Julia Howard

Opening boxes of holiday decorations, preparing festive seasonal foods, and gatherings with friends and family are some of the ways that we celebrate the holiday season. This time of year evokes different memories for all of us. This week, we look to our local farmers and producers as they share some of their favorite memories of Christmas on the farm.

Laurie Kokinda’s horse Hyde, photo courtesy of Laurie Kokinda

“When we were kids, Christmas Eve was always our big dinner and presents,” shares Laurie Kokinda of Kokinda Farm and Laurie’s Jams and Jellies. “Christmas morning, we always saddled horses and went for a trail ride through Luther Forest. Back then, it was a single dirt road and especially beautiful if we got fresh snow.”

Jim and Himanee Gupta-Carlson of Squashville Farm explains that many religious and cultural traditions have shaped their holiday festivities. Their move to the Upstate NY area and involvement in local farmers’ markets has also guided their holiday rituals. “We always get a fresh tree from Charles of Scotch Ridge Farm,” says Himanee Gupta-Carlson. “We celebrate the Feast of the Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve with seven (or sometimes more!) types of shellfish or fish from Pura Vida Fisheries, and we like to do purple potato latkes during Hanukkah and a roast duck on Christmas Day,” Gupta-Carlson adds.

Slate River Farms, photo courtesy of Nellie Lovenduski

At Nettle Meadow Farm and animal sanctuary, Christmas is celebrated with a big holiday bash hosted by the farm owners for the employees. The farm’s annual party includes a feast, a secret Santa gift swap, games, and good conversation. Farmworker Sean Dean jokes that the farm’s geriatric rescue turkey has the safest home at the farm.

 

Slate River Farms, photo courtesy of Nellie Lovenduski

Nellie Lovenduski of Slate River Farms shares memories of family snowshoeing on the farm, taking chickens for rides in snow tubes, and ice skating on Ensign Brook.

Anna Mae Clark, a long-time market member and best known as ‘the jam lady’, recalls memories of cookies and sweet treats throughout the Christmas season. “My mother made New Year’s cookies around Thanksgiving, and the cookies aged in a crock until they were ready to be devoured at Christmas festivities,” reminisces Clark. Baking her favorite sugar cookies, her grandmother’s oatmeal-raisin cookies, and her brother’s favorite chocolate chip cookies evoke her most meaningful holiday memories of time shared with family.

This holiday season, we encourage you to build traditions of your own. Perhaps by sharing a favorite recipe, shopping for your holiday feast at the farmers’ market, or simply spending time with loved ones — which is where the true spirit of the season lays.

 

This week’s recipe: Buttery Breakfast Casserole

Planning a Summer Supper on the Grill

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By Himanee Gupta-Carlson

A great perk of summer is eating outdoors. My husband and I do this as often as we can manage. About 7 p.m., he gathers up wood and gets a fire going in our old charcoal goal. As the wood burns down to coals, I prep. Then, we cook and eat slowly, sipping wine and beer, watching the sun set and sky darken to dusk.

What goes on the grill? Where does it come from?

Most of what we eat comes from the Saratoga Farmers’ Market or our farm. What goes on the grill depends on what’s in season.

Grilled sirloin from Longlesson Farm, photo by Pattie Garrett

The centerpiece of most of our meals is meat, farm-raised and brought to an ambient temperature, maybe brushed with a bit of Dancing Ewe Farm’s olive oil, maybe sprinkled with black pepper or garlic, maybe topped with finely chopped rosemary or sage.

The “maybes” are truly that. Options. The meats our farmers bring to market come from animals that feast on the flavorful bounty of outdoor pastures, and rarely require much to enhance their flavor. We rotate between chicken, goat, pork, fish, lamb, and beef.

With meat as the main course, vegetables in all shapes, textures, and tastes enhance the overall meal.

I plan a supper’s vegetables around three basic cooking styles: roasted, sautéed, and right on the grill. Roasted is usually a starch – such as hakurei turnips, trimmed, wrapped in foil and cooked until fork-soft and slightly caramelized. For sautéed, try a bunch of seasonal greens such as tatsoi, tossed into a frying pan or wok with olive oil, lemon juice, and maybe chopped onion, green garlic, or chive. Stir fry the greens for 2-4 minutes until they have wilted. Right on the grill is anything that likes a slight singe. For instance, zucchini, cooked until tender with a blackened patten from the grill.

Grilled lamb chops from Elihu Farm, photo by Pattie Garrett

Summer supper possibilities on the grill are endless. Try your own combinations and stop by the market to share your results.

On Wednesdays, locally raised meat and poultry may be found at Ramble Creek Farm, Slate River Farms, and Squashville Farm. On Saturdays, Elihu Farm, Lewis Waite Farm, Longlesson Farm, M&A Farm, and Ramble Creek Farm. Fish and seafood may be found at Pura Vida Fisheries. And, cured meats not for grilling may be found at Dancing Ewe Farm.

Fruits of the Sea: Fresh fish at the Saratoga Farmers’ Market

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By Himanee Gupta-Carlson

Eight years ago, Captain Rick Lofstad joined the Saratoga Farmers’ Market with Pura Vida Fisheries Inc.

The customer line stretched around his tables and beyond. Fish lovers and others were entranced by the opportunity to obtain seafood freshly caught almost in their back yards. The interest was so high that a year and a half later, Lofstad opened a retail store, Moby Rick’s Seafood, on Lake Street.

Today, that demand for fresh fish remains strong at the market, where Pura Vida offers a variety of fish and shellfish weekly.

Sardines. Photo by Pattie Garrett

“I grew up in New England and when I moved here, I thought we were too far inland to get fresh fish,” says Kenny Bourbeau, a personal chef. “Then, I heard about this guy who was selling fish at the Saratoga Farmers’ Market. I had to check it out.”

Bourbeau now sells fish for Pura Vida and Moby Rick’s, and helps make the chowders and other prepared foods that are also available. The store offers fish from throughout the world. However, the producers-only ethic and local emphasis of the Saratoga Farmers’ Market means that what Pura Vida brings to this market are solely those fished from New York waters, mostly off the coast of Long Island.

In other words, says Bourbeau, about as fresh as seafood gets.

Among the local fish available at the market at this time of year are grey sole, winter flounder, sand shark, black sea bass, porgy, skate, monkfish, weak fish, blow fish, sea scallops, cod, tuna, and squid. Lofstad’s boats go out several times a week. The catch is transported to a facility in Hudson, where it its filleted and then transported to Saratoga a day before market.

Littleneck Clams. Photo by Pattie Garrett

When asked what was his favorite winter catch, Adrien Johnson had to think. He likes all of it. Finally, he settled on scallops – from both the Long Island Bay and Peconic Bay. The icy cold seawater sweetens their taste. The scallops are great sautéed in olive oil or butter with some garlic and black pepper, or can be cooked into a stew (see accompanying recipe).

For more suggestions, visit Pura Vida’s table at the market.

Sea Scallop Stew

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*denotes ingredients currently available at the farmers’ market

INGREDIENTS:

2 carrots,* finely chopped

Minced garlic,* shallot,* and/or onion,* to taste.

1 tablespoon fresh ginger, finely chopped 

1-2 stalks celery, finely chopped

16 ounces fish stock* (or chicken or vegetable broth)

1 sprig fresh thyme* or another fresh herb* such as rosemary

1 dozen clams*

1/2 lb mussels*

1/2 lb sea scallops*

1/2 lb firm local fish, such as monkfish* or steelhead trout*

Salt and black pepper to taste

Olive oil

INSTRUCTIONS:

  1. Wash clam and mussel shells to remove any residual debris.
  2. Heat olive oil in a soup pan, and add carrots, celery, ginger, garlic, herbs and other seasonings. Sauté on medium heat for about 3 minutes.
  3. Add stock and bring to a boil. Lower heat and allow mixture to simmer until vegetables are soft. Add additional water, stock, or white wine, if desired.
  4. While vegetables are cooking, steam clams and mussels open. Remove from shells.
  5. Add sea scallops and any additional fish to stew, along with clams and mussels.  
  6. Cook on a medium-low heat until scallops start to split at edges, about 7 to 10 minutes.
  7. Remove from heat and enjoy with rice, oyster crackers, or a toasted baguette.* If desired, garnish with a sprig of fresh parsley* or a few micro greens,* as pictured.

Variations: 

Feel free to vary the types of vegetables and seafood in this recipe. You can obtain fresh fish stock from Pura Vida Fisheries at the farmers’ market or at their Moby Rick’s Seafood store on Lake Street.

Finding Freshness in the Freezer

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By Himanee Gupta-Carlson

Mid-winter meals often call for “something fresh.”

At the Saratoga Farmers’ Market, “something fresh” in February usually means stored fruits and vegetables from late summer harvests, or items like microgreens and pea shoots that can be grown in flat trays over heating mats or under lights, or small tomatoes and cucumbers that can be grown in greenhouses.

Late summer produce, photo By Eric Jenks

All that is good. But sometimes the taste buds want something more – out of season peppers, beans, broccoli, a wide variety of tomatoes, or corn.

In the past, saving foods for the winter was a necessity. In a practice known as “putting foods by,” families salted, pickled, dried, canned or otherwise preserved freshly harvested fruits or vegetables for later use.

The rise of global shipping and grocery chains caused many to abandon the practice, as did changes in the societal structure that led to longer working hours and more activities outside the home. It became faster and easier to just drop by the store.

But I hate buying non-local produce. I love growing food with my husband and supporting my farmer friends by buying what they grow. Last September I decided to try putting foods by in a simple way: I stored fresh tomatoes, beans, peppers, broccoli and sweet corn in freezer bags. On my mind then was Chowderfest, and its fabulous chowders, many of which get their zest from non-winter foods.

The result? Winter meals with more variety, flavor, and color – fresh tomato sauces, roasted broccoli, and braised beans served alongside the apples, turnips, carrots, and microgreens I can still get weekly at the market. 

I hope to finish off these delights by early May when the market moves to its outdoor location on Wednesdays and Saturdays at High Rock Park. Then, I will start planning for next winter. I invite you to join me in this venture as you visit the market now and in the future.

Clams & Mussels from Pura Vida Fisheries, photo by Pattie Garrett

As for chowder, I am thinking classic New England, made with clams (Pura Vida Fisheries) or chicken (Squashville Farm, Ramble Creek Farm, Mariaville Mushroom Men, and others), milk (Battenkill Valley Creamery), potatoes, and kernels of sweet corn, purchased last summer for weekends like this.